View of Georgetown from Straits Quay

Straits Quay
Jalan Seri Tanjung Pinang
Tanjung Tokong, Penang, 10470
Malaysia
Website

Straits Quay is a new retail and entertainment precinct from E&O Developments, on the waterfront in Tanjung Tokong.  Think: Docklands, but without the wind, and with actual customers.  And when I say "new", I mean that it popped up sometime in the last eight years, between my last two visits to Penang.  We came here a couple of times over our trip, for dinners, yummy desserts and drinks!

The Waterfront

I know that journalism about Penang focuses primarily on its rich culture of hawker food, and justifiably so, but there is a real diversity of places to eat in Penang - from the streetside stalls and casual restaurants to the big chains, and 'proper' posh restaurants too.  Of course, cuisines from around the world are well represented - Japanese, Thai, different Western cuisines and more.  It's not like locals just eat local food all the time - that would be like saying Melburnians only eat at inner-city converted warehouse cafes! Hehehe.

I should admit to you all here that when I was a little kid, I hated hawker stalls and kopitiams.  Hated them.  My parents would have to drag me, kicking and screaming to them.  I hated the humidity, I hated the rickety stools, and I got scared every time one of the uncles would yell "KOPI PENG, NOR-AY, CHILAY MILO PENG!" across the room.  At that age, I would have given anything to eat somewhere airconditioned, like the Shangri-La hotel buffet or Tip-Top or Top-Top cafes.  (Those cafes have since closed down - today's equivalent would be a Coffee Bean).  Of course, now that I'm all grown up I love hawker food - it's funny how things change!

But for today I wanted to show you the different outlets we enjoyed at Straits Quay.


Nyonya Breeze Desire
Shop 3A-1-7
Ph: +604 8999 058
Website


My uncle brought us to Nyonya Breeze Desire, for really good Nyonya food in a lovely environment.  The service here was great too.  People who've been to Penang will know what I mean when I say that often, Penang-service can be a little, well, sleepy, but the head waiter / manager here was super nice, really outgoing and switched-on, with excellent knowledge of the menu.




Clockwise from top left:
Huan Chu Heok Masak Lemak - young sweet potato leaves cooked in coconut milk with prawns and sweet potatoes - RM11.90
Inche Kabin - The Nyonya deep fried chicken served with prawn crackers and a dipping sauce of 'ang mo tau eu' - RM17.90
Hong Bak - Pork belly chunks and potatoes cooked in a bean paste sauce with local herbs - RM18.90
Achar Awak - pickled cucumber, cabbage, carrots, French beans and long beans in a spicy mix with a sprinkling of sesame seeds and peanuts - RM11.90



Oh Sushi!
Shop 3E-G-5, Quay South
Ph: +60 4-899 0109

We brought my aunty to Oh Sushi! for dinner on the last night we stayed with her, to say thank-you for being an awesome host!  She loves Japanese food, and one of her friends recommended this restaurant to us.



The servings here were very generous, and well-made, and very fresh.  The menu is massive though, so it took us ages to make our decisions!

Spicy Chicken Ramen

Unagi / Tempura bento - massive!

My aunty's salmon sashimi bento

Sushi rolls

At RM180 for three people, Oh Sushi! was expensive by local standards, but by Aussie standards it was a bargain (less than $60 all up!!), and we were absolutely stuffed by the end!




Delicious
Shop 3C-G-3 & 3C-G-3A
Ph: +604 8998 555
Website

I wouldn't have thought to go to a cafe in Malaysia for Western-style cakes - ordinarily this is the type of place I would just sit in with a drink for a rest whilst shopping.  However, my uncle of discerning tastes said it was pretty good, and I was happy to give it a go.  It actually turned out to be really good, and we ended up visiting twice!


I liked the light, breezy atmosphere... and the cakes in the cabinet looked great too!

On our first visit with my uncle (this was straight after Nyonya Breeze Desire), we shared two cakes between three of us, as well as coffee and tea.

Coconut cake RM11.90; Pistachio Cheesecake RM14.90

Both cakes were good, but the coconut cake was an absolute standout!  Light, fluffy cake layers, sandwiched with lovely coconut-flavoured cream, all covered in icing and shredded coconut.  Not too sweet, and with a natural coconut flavour, it was gorgeous!

Mmm... inside the coconut cake

On our second visit (straight after Oh Sushi! with my chocolate-loving aunty), we were quite full, so just shared one cake between the three of us.  The chocolate cake was served warm, smothered in hot chocolate sauce and topped with vanilla ice-cream.  Super-yum!

Chocolate Cake RM12.90

I know not everyone travels all the way to Malaysia just to have Western cakes, but I think Delicious is a great option if you've had enough of peanut pancakes and banana roti, and are just craving some rich Western cakes!



Healy Mac's Irish Pub and Restaurant
Shop 3A-G-9
Ph: +604 8903 477

After dinner at Oh Sushi! and dessert at Delicious, Aunty Rosie, Sandra and I headed to Healy Mac's Irish Pub for drinks with two of Aunty Rosie's girlfriends.  So yes, you've read that right - we were out drinking at an Irish Pub with three ladies in their sixties - and I am ashamed to say they out-partied both of us!


After a big day of sightseeing and walking around in the heat, by the time night time came around we were completely drained and knackered - not my aunties!  They were eating, drinking, laughing, requesting songs from the live band - the singer there did an amazing cover of Janis Joplin! - and even ordering shots!

"Come on girls, have a drink! You like beer? Have a cocktail!"

Well, it would be rude to say no...

When Aunty Wan asked us: "What are you drinking, girls?" I couldn't bear to say the real name to her face... I'm pretty sure I said it was a Cosmopolitan!  I was actually really impressed by the cocktails here - they were way better than the ones at the Sky Bar in KL, and quite a bit cheaper.  I didn't eat anything here, but I have it on good authority that the pork knuckle served here is very good.

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We're getting close to the end of my posts on Penang!  I've just got one more to come: my review of the Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa. YAY!


This is the fifth post in my series: 2012 Trip to Penang.

The Jubilee Clocktower (built in 1897), on the corner of Beach Street and Light Street

As I mentioned in my first Malaysia 2012 post, this was my first visit to Penang as a grown up, so I did a lot more touristy activities than I would normally.  My particular interests (apart from food, of course!) were colonial architecture and history, and I tried to spend as much time as possible walking through Georgetown to see the old buildings.  Growing up, I used to visit Penang almost every year, and the speed of progress and change really astounded me - I was so happy when I learned that Georgetown had been listed as a UNESCO world heritage site in 2008!  I'm hopeful that this will mean better conservation than this below example.  In 2001, an L-shaped skyscraper was built around one of the beautiful old mansions on Northam Road.  Oh dear.


Today I'd like to share with you some of my favourite tourist spots in Penang.


Tropical Spice Garden
Lone Crag Villa, Lot 595 Mukim 2
Jalan Teluk Bahang 11100
Penang, Malaysia.
Ph: +604 881 1797
Website

The Tropical Spice Garden covers eight acres of jungle, and houses over five hundred species of tropical flora and fauna.  You can go on walks around the gardens and see all the different spice plants - this one below is torch ginger - and I've heard they also host cooking classes.



We even saw a big monitor lizard!

It does get quite hot and sweaty walking around the gardens in the heat, and the super nice staff give you citronella oil when you arrive, to prevent mosquitoes.  (A few still managed to bite though, crafty little things!)

Of course, being a true Malaysian, my favourite part of the visit was relaxing at the Tree Monkey Restaurant and having a refreshing drink.

Tree Monkey Restaurant

The restaurant, high up in the trees, serves Thai food and does snacks and drinks all day, as well as dinner at night.  I didn't eat here, but my parents came here for dinner on their most recent trip to Malaysia, and greatly enjoyed the meal.


Peranakan Mansion
29 Church Street
10200 Penang
Malaysia
Ph: +60 4 264 2929

The Peranakan Mansion was my favourite destination of them all!  On Church street is a big green mansion, lovingly restored to show the typical home of a rich Baba of a century ago.  By the way: Peranakans are also known as Straits Chinese, or Nyonyas (females) and Babas (males), or simply Malaysian Chinese.  My people.


The interiors are absolutely stunning!




The kitchen reminded me of the house my mum grew up in.

Kitchen

You can book functions in the mansion - we saw a couple having a photo shoot for a wedding while we were there.

Awww!

Kuan Yin Temple

Kuan Yin Temple

The Kuan Yin Temple, although listed as a tourist attraction on the Tourism Malaysia website, is one that I visit regularly to worship (kee pai).  I think it's a great spot for visitors to Penang, as it really gives you a glimpse of the local lifestyle and traditions, without being as commercialised and touristy as, say, the Kek Lok Si temple.  It's on Pitt Street, between Stewart Lane and Farquah Street.  (I see very few tourists there, mainly fellow worshipers).


Khoo Kongsi
18 Cannon Square
10200 Penang
Malaysia
Ph: +60 4 261 4609
Website


The Khoo Kongsi is the most distinctive and elaborate of the Chinese clan houses in Penang, and in addition to the clan house, the complex also includes sixty two units of shophouses and terrace houses, an opera stage and an office.  The level of intricacy in the design is just stunning.


Ayer Itam Dam

Ayer Itam Dam

View of Georgetown from Ayer Itam Dam - you can see the pagoda of the Kek Lok Si temple from here!

Penang Hill

Penang Hill is a very popular site for tourists, with its panoramic views of Georgetown.  A funicular train takes you to the top of the hill, where you can take tours of the hill, view the historical buildings, explore the forest, have a drink at one of the cafes, and more.


Penang Hill tends to be very crowded and touristy, and I much preferred the Ayer Itam Dam.  Another thing that puts me off Penang Hill is its horrible ticket pricing system - children or seniors are charged RM4.00, local adults are RM8.00, and foreigners are charged RM30.00. THIRTY!  Aiyo, where got so unfair one, how can?!?!


If you've got a Malaysian Identity Card (IC), make sure you bring it with you and remember to ask for local prices!  Not all places charge different prices for foreigners, but a lot do.


Kek Lok Si


The famous Kek Lok Si temple, in the Ayer Itam area, is lit up at night during the Chinese New Year period. We didn't go walking around the temple itself, but did drive past at night to admire the view and snap some photos.  I thought it looked fabulous, lighting up the night sky!


Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
14 Leith Street
Georgetown
Pulau Penang 10200
Malaysia
Ph: +604 262 0006
Website

Another historically significant building, the 'blue mansion' was built by Chinese businessman Cheong Fatt Tze towards the end of the nineteenth century according to strict Feng Shui principles.  Although it had fallen into disrepair, it was acquired by private owners in the late 1980's and painstakingly restored to its original glory.  Apart from winning a stack of conservation awards, the mansion was also listed in the Lonely Planet's Top Ten Greatest Mansions in the World.  (At number 2!)



Visitors are only permitted to visit the house on guided tours - there are three each day at 11am, 1:30pm and 3:00pm.  Our tour guide was the very enthusiastic and knowledgeable Mr Poh, who explained the intriguing history, design and restoration process of the mansion - it was a great visit, and so fascinating!

They Mansion also provides boutique B&B-style accommodation - there are sixteen rooms in the mansion, and I'm told that B&B guests are able to access the mansion at their leisure.



Snake Temple

I'd never been to the Snake Temple, but have known about it all my life - an ordinary temple supposedly full of pit vipers.  (Don't worry, these snakes are quite harmless as they're pretty drugged up from all the incense! And as a safety precaution they've been de-venomed.)  It's quite far out of town, near the airport in Bayan Lepas, so my uncle took us here on the way to the airport.


Because of all the hype, I must say I was a bit disappointed by the Snake Temple - I had expected a massive temple, with loads of snakes draped everywhere, but in reality it was a small temple, with just a few snakes coiled near the altars, as well as a few in the gardens.  It was also highly commercialised, with lots of little souvenir shops.  (Of course you can get a picture of yourself taken with a giant snake too, if that takes your fancy).


Having said that, I'm glad we visited, so that I could finally see it for myself (and to enjoy a refreshing fresh coconut juice in the little stall next door!)  Entry is free as well, so you won't lose out on much by visiting!

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It looks like a lot of places to visit in just four days, but Penang is quite compact - with the luxury of having locals to drive us around, we actually visited the Peranakan Mansion, the Khoo Kongsi, the Kuan Yin Temple, the Ayer Itam dam, Penang Hill and the Kek Lok Si all in one day!  (On the same day, we also managed to have breakfast at Fettes Park, visit a bunch of temples near the Khoo Kongsi, walk through Little India, have lunch at Tho Yeun and eat dinner at Goodall Cafe).  PHEW!

So, is there anything I've missed that you'd recommend seeing?  What are your favourite places to visit in Penang?

This is the fourth post in my series: 2012 Trip to Penang.

For today's Penang post, I'm focusing on casual restaurants.  The main difference between these restaurants and the hawker centres / kopitiams, is that these restaurants are one business in one location, rather than separate businesses converging in the one location.  There's no real reason for me to classify these separately, except that I wanted to prevent my individual posts from getting too long!

All the food here was fabulous, but I can particularly recommend the Thai-style fried tofu and the deep-fried eggplant.  It was here that I discovered the delicious Neslo (milo and nescafe - together at last!), so it's always going to have a special place in my heart, hehe.

Clockwise from front: Kung Po chicken, Thai-style fried tofu, pork ribs, deep fried eggplant

Steamed savoury egg custard